Castle Square in Warsaw.
Have you been to Poland?
I know, it somehow does not have the romance and allure that Italy, France, Spain or England has. But I’m telling you, it should!!! I am here to become the next Polish ambassador and promote tourism there.
Just kidding, but seriously, if you haven’t been, you should put this on your bucket list.
Poland might not be on your radar because the country was far behind Western Europe and the US because of its communist past. However, it’s changed so much over the last decade that Poland has transformed by leaps and bounds, with new highways, high speed rail lines, skyscrapers popping up, and (most importantly for me) an outstanding restaurant culture. Honestly, we didn’t know what to expect from the country, but I have to say I loved it and was very impressed! Additionally, your dollar can go really far here. For example, a 20 minute taxi ride will cost only a few dollars. At this time, one dollar roughly equals four zlotys!
With Poland, we were visiting our son, Zach and his fiancée, Agata, in Warsaw where he just finished his Fulbright year, working on his Yale PhD dissertation in History. Agata is also working on her PhD in Comparative Literature. Both, smart cookies. For our son, because of his focus, he is the ultimate tour guide, sharing all of his historical knowledge and facts about each place we went. Besides being a proud mamma, I learned a whole heck of a lot!
We did tons of walking – at least 6 miles every day, in Warsaw, Krakow and Mława. Actually in Krakow we walked 11+ miles! Needless to say we ate and drank with abandon and I actually did not gain any weight!! Yay, because the Italian wedding was afterwards and I needed to make sure I’d fit into my clothes!
Castle Square sidewalk cafes.
Poland is beautiful, and super, super clean, with sophisticated restaurants and cool coffee cafes. I noticed that people take the time to really relax and enjoy life with a walk in the park or a leisurely cup of coffee, and they are not always on their phones. We spent most of our time in Warsaw, the capital. As you may know, much of central Warsaw was leveled to rubble during WWII. Well Zach told us the story of how before WW II started, some prescient (or lucky) architecture professor sent his students out to the old city to draw all the buildings there as an academic exercise to learn how they built in those days. Luckily those drawings survived the war, so after everything in the square was leveled, they were able to refer to those drawings and rebuilt everything in and around the square just exactly as it was. Isn’t that amazing??
On our second day, Zach and Agata, in their newly bought car, drove us to a village near Mława, where my father’s family is from. There in the street, we met an 88 year-old man (Agata and Zach translated for us) who was helping his grandkids sweep the street (I told you they were very clean). This village elder actually knew where my grandparents’ family plot of land was, before they left to go to America and settle in St. Louis. The house is not the same but I was able to stand on the same ground. Honestly, it was chilling and thrilling. I was filled with an indescribable emotion. It was very intense.
The village, Korboniec, outside of Mlawa – the street where I’m from.
Here I am with the 88 year old man, Mr. Zywiec, who remembers my family.
Here I am standing on the land once owned by my relatives!
My cousin, Bob, says that our grandfather left from Bremen, Germany with his brother in 1905. They were both going to be inducted into the Russian Army and wanted to get out of town. In those days “Poland” did not exist. It was part of the Russian, Prussian, Austro-Hungarian empire. My grandmother had a one-year old child, (Bob’s dad) and was pregnant with a second child (our Uncle Eugene) when she came by herself in 1906.
As Bob said, “You know they didn’t make the trip on a luxury liner. Now you know where we get our determination and perseverance.”
It must have been quite a trip.
This village is served by a church and graveyard in a neighboring town. There, dozens of my distant relatives are buried and some of the tombstones have pictures. Agata could clearly see the family resemblance. Crazy, isn’t it?
The Museum of the History of Polish Jews in Warsaw.
We also visited The Museum of the History of Polish Jews in Warsaw, which was totally engrossing and beautiful with so much information, you could spend an entire week in there. This museum just won Museum of the Year for all of Europe!! The exhibits are all amazing and unique.
We had the best meal ever at this restaurant called Nolita in Warsaw!! It was Zach’s birthday present, an 8-course meal that was better than Eleven Madison Park here in NYC.
Seriously.
Nolita’s foie gras bon bon with reduced port, beet and blood orange juice on a bed of crumbled brioche.
Nolita fish course – lobster sashimi, elderflower, samphire.
Nolita’s birthday presentation.
Surf and Turf dinner in Krakow. Notice the line of salt.
Just look at these! Every dish was beautiful and scrumptious with no unnecessary foam – all great, DELICIOUS food. At the end of the meal I got to have a conversation with the chef, who trained all over the world but primarily in London and Paris. He said his philosophy is not to have any unnecessary tricks, but elegant, good solid food. My kind of man.
Poland is a must-see place!!! We’re excited to go back next July for Zach and Agata’s wedding in the southwestern part of the country, which is just beautiful with mountains and castles from the Middle Ages.
You all should put Poland on your list for your next big trip!
Just take a look at these pictures for a mini tour.
Making potato pancakes at the breakfast market – Targ Śniadaniowy in Warsaw on Sundays. This was the best ever potato pancake!! They also set up a playground for the kids that you can see behind her.
Enjoying all the breakfast market food.
Eggs at the market, Hala Mirowska.
Listening to the free Chopin concert in Lazienki Park, the largest park in Warsaw. This happens every Sunday!
Beautiful Polish countryside between Warsaw and Krakow.
Krakow!
Collection box meeting place in the main square in Krakow.
Wawel Castle in Kraków.
We had a vodka tasting one night to determine which one they will serve at their wedding!
Zach and Agata at the Jewish cemetery in Warsaw. They have been volunteering to clean up and weed the neglected graves.
Park Saski – Saxon Garden in Warsaw. The tomb of the Unknown Soldier is in front us where they have a Changing of the Guard.
Herons, horses and a lamb, oh my!
A Most Amazing Tuscan Al Fresco Dinner Party
Nashville!
LongHouse Food Revival promises to be pretty amazing!
Going to Greece
Looks like a really wonderful trip Mary Frances, Poland looks beautiful. I travelled all over Europe and I’m sorry to say I never went there. Everything looks amazing at your dinner at Nolita, food sounds really good and I like the Chef’s philosophy. So glad you had such a nice time and got to see the land that belonged to your family and what a coincidence that the gentelman knew about your family.
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I know – it was all so cool, Suzanne. You should put Poland on your list – we had such a great time!!!
Mary Frances , what a beautiful post and tribute to Poland. I’ve only been in a little village near the German boarder. I would love to go further and explore more.
I encourage you to go Gerlinde – it’s really great!!
Looks like you had a lovely visit and photos are great.
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Thanks Jovina!! We had such a good time!!
Mary: What a touching, lovely piece of writing,shared from your sweet Polish-American heart. I am so glad to be your friend. And, when I go to Poland, I will be sure to visit the sublime restaurant that I will always remember as “not too much foam.”
LOL!!! You will LOVE it!!
Ive been to Poland last year not Warsaw but Wroclaw. I agree its not Paris or Rome but it offer something different and I liked it. Nice to see your photos, it made me go back to reminiscing mode.
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A wonderful post, Mary. Warsaw looks beautiful. I was in Prague a number of years ago and passed up an opportunity to go to Poland. Ive regretted it ever since but it taught me a lesson. Never pass up an opportunity to see another destination when on holiday. Who knows if you’ll ever have another chance?
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Exactly John!! But maybe you’ll have another chance!
Glad to hear Raymund! It was a great trip for us!!!
Oh what an informative and beautiful post featuring Poland. Like all the others, I’ve never been to Poland, but now you’ve got my mind thinking 🙂 We were in Portugal this summer and thoroughly enjoyed the country and its people too. I love your pictures, it must have been wonderful to have had first hand information and a great guide in your son. The countryside is beautiful, and the food must have been great too. Thanks for educating us all.
You’re so welcome Loretta!!! I hope you get a chance to go!
Who would have thought Poland was so beautiful? I would love to be able to visit one day!
I know – my thoughts before too, Sarah!!
What a fabulous trip! Having a built in tour guide in Poland was certainly a plus. How fun that you could explore the land of some of your ancestors. Love all these beautiful photos—Poland is now on my bucket list 🙂
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So glad to hear, Liz!! I know you’ll love it!
What a sweet pilgrimage!! I would love to visit Poland!
SWEET is a great word for it!!! I hope you get a chance to go Katerina!!
Mary, I have never been to Poland but need to get this destination on my bucket list. Beautiful photos with blue skies. Love that photo with the bike. Of course vodka tasting, but of course can’t miss that. Wishing you a super day!
Thanks Bobbi Ann!!! Hope you get to go soon!
What an awesome trip! Poland looks beautiful with lots of yummy eats! So glad you had a nice time!
What wonderful pictures! I’ve not been to Poland but have heard how pretty it was. And that it had a really interesting food scene. You have me really wanting to travel there now! 🙂 Good post — thanks.
John/Kitchen Riffs recently posted…The Missionary’s Downfall Cocktail
Thanks for taking us on your journey to Poland! Being Polish (grandmother born in Poland) it was fun for me to see, I hope to visit someday!
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I am so moved by this post. Though never Poland, I’ve been to Eastern Europe enough times in the past 20 years to have noticed the changes you are speaking of. More fascinating to me however is all that history. Lucky you have a son who thinks so too. GREG
What beautiful photos — Poland looks like such a wonderful place to visit!
You are right, Poland was never really on my list of places to visit, although I would have gone in a heart beat if someone invited me! BUT I will put it on my list now! Looks like you had an incredible time! How AMAZING that you got to stand on your grandparents plot of land! Crazy you ran into someone who remembered them! I guess it’s true when they say “it’s a small world”, huh? The food looked incredible and all the history is just charming! Thanks for sharing!! Cheers!
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Wow! So many comments on this post, Mary. First off, your son is on a Fulbright and in grad school at Yale? You definitely have a right to be proud!! But on to Poland. I loved this post. I can’t say that I’ve ever thought about Poland as a destination…but it looks like a great vacation. And I can’t help but wonder…is Mr. Zywiec related to the Zywiec beer company? (Of course, Zywiec may be a common name like Miller is here in the States, but it still made me wonder!)
Poland is one of the destinations I’m hoping to visit soon – I’ve seen and read so many beautiful things about the place! I hope to do a long trip to explore the country in depth, hope the trip is coming soon!
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